I first stepped ashore in Shanghai, China, in September 1945, when my Navy troop ship docked there to pick up just-released American, British and Aussie POWs from World War II. We then took them back to Manila for medical air and flights to their homes. Although the old city was a bit worse for wear from combat and bombing, Shanghai was still the charming international city it had been for a century. That time I was armed with a Navy backpack, a carbine and .45 pistol.

I returned several years ago, armed only with a carry-on suitcase and camera, and was absolutely astonished at the super-modern 21st Century city Shanghai has become, now even more so than Hong Kong, and still growing at an amazing pace. High-rise buildings abound on the main street, Nanking Avenue, and the colorful Bund prominade along the Yangtse River frontage.

However, still nestled among the super aluminum and steel buildings and hotels are the wonderful traditional tearooms, temple gardens and carefully trimmed city parks, where the trees turn gold every autumn. The food is great, featuring a total spectrum of indoor and outdoor restaurants, from Chinese, French, English, Japanese, Mongolian, Italian, Russian and everything else, including Kosher.